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What cloth weight tells you, and what it doesn’t

Grams per metre, weave and lining, and why a 250 g/m suit can feel cooler than a 220.

By Adrian Leung, Co-founder and head cutter24 September 20265 min read

Three folded blue cloths show contrasting thicknesses and weaves on a wooden table.
Illustrative, AI-generated

Cloth weight is written in grams per linear metre, so a 250 g/m suiting is a midweight cloth that suits most of the year in Hong Kong and London. Weight is a useful first filter, and the rest of the decision sits in the weave, the yarn and the lining.

Weave matters as much as weight

An open weave lets air through. A 250 g/m fresco can feel cooler than a tightly woven 220 g/m worsted, because the weave matters as much as the weight. We hold cloths up to the window at measuring so you can see the difference rather than read about it.

Lining and construction

A half-lined jacket in a midweight cloth often works better in a humid commute than a fully lined lightweight. We talk through both at measuring. Weight changes the drape and the feel, never the price on our ranges.

Written by Vulpesco for this fictional demo. The atelier, its people and the calendar are invented.